I saw an article in the Cincinnati Enquirer today about a new wine restaurant opening in Cincinnati, named Lavomatic. It’s yet another establishment backed by Cincinnati restaurant mogul Jean-Robert de Cavel. The wine bar / restaurant sounds like something worth checking out. I particularly like the fact that they aren’t marking up wine prices as significantly as many restaurants do.
So, it sounds like an interesting place but the article amused me—and perhaps annoyed me. Here are some examples.
“The wine bar and bistro focuses on the future, too, said chef Joanne Drilling. The floors and tables are bamboo, and the bar is made of cork – a nod to sustainability and to vino.” I’m all for environmental conservation and sustainability, but we need to move beyond the bamboo. It’s a nice first step, but give me more. Otherwise, it sounds kind of pretentious to me.
“Ductwork and exposed brick give the narrow, bright restaurant an urban feel.” Did I just step into a time machine and land in 1991?
“We’re really committed to trying to be green as much as possible.” Really? You’re really committed to trying? As much as possible? It sounds like you’re not really committed to being green.
“It must be like the SoHo of the late ’60s early ’70s in New York City,” de Cavel said of Over-the-Rhine. Hmmm… I’ve been in Over-the-Rhine and I’ve never thought to myself that I might be in SoHo. Please don’t try to hoodwink me with that garbage.
Anyway, hooray for another wine bar & restaurant. Boo for an annoying article about it.
EDIT: Since I originally wrote this article I have gone to Lavomatic and I do have to say that it was quite good. They have a nice wine list with plenty of good ‘wine by the glass’ options and the food I had was good. The service was a little slow at times, but not too bad. I didn’t really get the sense that I was in an environmentally friendly oasis, but I wasn’t too surprised by that fact.
I know Joanne Drilling personally. Your impression of her committment to being “green” is way off. I admit that the article doesn’t do her justice– but you easily lept to quite negative conclusions. Maybe you should call the restaurant and talk to her about everything she does to support the local (organic) economy and the city of Cincinnati. She is a great talent and she chooses to give that talent to an otherwise un-illustrious city. Shame on you for passing judgement without adequate information.
Thanks for the comment.
My critique is of the article, not Joanne personally. The article was very cliché in how it characterized the special features of this restaurant. And some of the quotes were just silly.
I’m looking forward to visiting the restaurant and I’m sure it will be wonderful.
One cannot “commit” to complete sustainability without knowing the consumption level going in, here I mean in reference to local organic menu items. In response to your statement about the bamboo and cork, let me just say that those were two examples pointed out. There are many more efforts to be environmentally conscious. But it is easier to criticize than to investigate for yourself.