Years ago, I turned my wife on to sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. It’s now her white wine of choice. In fact, when white wine ends up on the grocery list there usually isn’t any second-guessing. So tonight as I was in the process of making dinner, my wife said she was up for a glass of wine. So I checked the fridge, and then the cellar, and sure enough, we were fresh out of SB. So I decided to improvise. I took the opportunity to review one of the white wines we recently received – the 2009 Martín Códax albariño. I figured I’d at least get a review in, but maybe, just maybe, broaden my wife’s white wine horizons. So I poured us both a glass, and went back to getting dinner ready.
Martin Códax produces this albariño from fruit grown in the Rías Baixas region in Northwest Spain. Because the region gets an abundance of rain, a pergola system is used to keep the vines high and dry. Winemaker Katia Alvarez allows the grapes to ferment in stainless steel for 3 weeks. Additionally, 40% of the juice undergoes malolactic fermentation to, as the winemaker’s notes suggest, “increase flavor complexity without sacrificing acid freshness”. On the nose, the wine offers up intense bell pepper, pear and honey. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly balanced offering good acidity, crispness and well integrated tropical fruit. The finish is also nice, but I’d prefer a bit more intensity.
Overall, this Martín Códax is a good example of the richness and intensity that albariño offers. Although it’s not exceptional, at this price point, it does represent a good value. If you haven’t tried albariño before, this is a great example with which to discover the varietal. Just ask my wife. I think albariño just made it on her grocery list.
A Salute!
Wine: Martín Códax
Variety: 100% Albariño
Vintage: 2009
Alcohol: 12.8%
Rating: 85
Price: $15
Find Martín Códax Albariño with Snooth
Disclosure: This wine was received as a sample.
Another interesting and cheap Albariño is this one coming from Uruguay.
BOUZA ALBARIÑO – BOUZA BODEGA BOUTIQUE – CNO. DE REDENCIÓN 7568 – MONTEVIDEO – URUGUAY – I.NA.VI 2587 12,5% 2010
VISUAL ANALYSIS: according to the degree of limpidity, this wine can be defined limpid; the shade is intense straw yellow and there is a medium body.
OLFACTORY ANALYSIS: the succession of smells is offering a very confident range of fleeting scents as a hazelnut, almonds, herbs, yellow flowers, lemon peel and green apple.
GUSTATIVE ANALYSIS: we can identify a pretentious structure which is spreading all over the palate; the salivation is playing a main role in the mouth and the final is slightly bitterish. The gustative aromatic persistence is of 5 seconds.
WINE-FOOD COMBINATION: grilled salmon
* The sweet tendency of the fish and is counterbalancing the bitterish final of the wine
* The fatness of the salmon is counterweighing the salivation of the wine
* The structure of the recipe is matching to the structure of the wine
* The gustative persistence of the dish is pairing with the aromatic persistence of the wine
MY PERSONAL OPINION: there doesn’t seem to be anything new, or better a nice white wine for one of the most common fish.
Guglielmo – Thanks for the recommendation. Well done!
Thanks for the review, I really like Martin Codax. Terras Gauda is another excellent albariño.
Thanks for the suggestion, Lin.