As we wrote in our 2009 roundup of 15 Good Merlots Under $15, “merlot can be exciting and merlot can be exceptional”. I agree with this, but let me go on record here by saying I’m hard on merlot. Maybe it’s because I’ve tasted so many fat & jammy, cookie cutter examples that I’ve grown a little weary of the varietal, particularly with less expensive versions. Now that’s not to suggest that you can’t find a diamond in the rough. You certainly can, but the task is made much harder with a varietal that the industry, the domestic vintners in particular, have all but typecast.
So here we go again, in an ongoing effort to hunt down an exceptional, noteworthy merlot for under $15, we’re rounding up a few arrivals to Cheapwineratings.com, and seeing if one of these gets to wear the crown for most distinguished merlot, in an also-ran varietal category.
First up is Crane Lake 2008. This wine is rather light and jammy, but it shows a little character in the mid-palate, where it’s smooth fruit pleases. Unfortunately the wine turns mildly astringent in the finish and throws off the balance a bit. A decent offering, but it doesn’t get the crown.
Wine: CraneLake
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2008
Alcohol: 12.5%
Rating: 84
Price: $4.99
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Next is the Concannon 2007. I was expecting big things from this wine, judging from the heft of the bottle and the overall impressive packaging. But the Concannon disappointed. It has a rather rustic style, which can be distinguishing, but the wine is overwhelmed with tannin and alcohol, making it appear “hot” and out of balance.
Wine: Concannon Conservancy Livermore Valley
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2007
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 82
Price: $14.99
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On to the Glen Ellen 2008, a winery that it could be argued is as mainstream as they come. But its humble class status belies the true nature of this wine. I was pleasantly surprised by the Glen Ellen. The wine offers up abundant plum fruit, tinged with cherry. It’s slightly jammy, but is the most balanced wine of the bunch, with nicely integrated tannins. This is a good example of traditional California merlot, but it’s not my style.
Wine: Glen Ellen Proprietor’s Reserve “Concannon Vineyard”
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2008
Alcohol: 13%
Rating: 87
Price: $5.99
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Monthaven Winery’s 2008 merlot is by default the most distinguished wine here simply because it comes in a 3 liter bag-in-the-box. There are many advantages to this, not the least of which is being able to enjoy the wine well after it has been opened. In fact I’m still enjoying this same wine now over a month in. And don’t let the packaging fool you. This is a legitimate contender, offering a rich and textured palate with well-integrated tannins. The finish is a bit dry, but the wine shows an abundance of ripe plum and blackberry fruit, along with some pleasant herbal notes. You need to try this wine, if only to see how good bag-in-the-box can be.
Wine: Monthaven Winery
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2008
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 87
Price: $24.00 (3l)
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Then we have the Motos Liberty 2008. While the Motos, it could be argued, is one of the more distinguished wines here, offering up a nice nose of strawberry, plum and mild vanilla, turning herbal and cedary on the palate, the wine lacks intensity, and finishes with mild astringency. A good effort overall, but it finished mid-pack.
Wine: Motos Liberty
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2008
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 85
Price: $10.99
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Historically, Napa Ridge has offered solid value across their line-up of wines. And their 2007 Merlot is no exception. This example offers rich black fruit and integrated oak on the nose. On the palate the wine is quite lush, offering jammy plum fruit and good structure. This wine could actually fool you into thinking it was much more expensive than it actually is.
Wine: Napa Ridge
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2007
Alcohol: 12.5%
Rating: 87
Price: $12
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Our last entry is Turning Leaf’s 2008. This wine initially offers a rich nose of banana and oak, but that fades to unripe plum and strawberry. The wine is nicely balanced with tropical notes and oak, but turns slightly tannic. This might appear as a flaw with some traditional merlot drinkers, but it actually provides this merlot with some distinction.
Wine: Turning Leaf
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2008
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 86
Price: $7.99
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So there you go, 7 merlots worthy of a try. I can’t say there is a wine worthy of the crown in this bunch, but there are some favorites. The search continues…….
A Salute!
Disclosure: These wines were received as samples.